The Sepik River is one of the world’s great river systems and to travel this area by motorized canoe is a very special journey of exploration through a living gallery of tribal artistic expression. Glide past majestic Haus Tambaran (spirit houses) and search for unique carvings, each with a story revealing the spiritual beliefs of the Sepik people.

Our Sepik River Canoe Treks commence by travelling south from Wewak to Pagwi by 4WD vehicle (4 hours drive depending on road conditions). The initial drive climbs into the hills behind Wewak, and continues via rainforest sloping ground, before entering the Sepik flood plain, where rainforest is slowly being replaced by large grassy plains.

This sinuous river stretches almost 1,200 km from its source to the sea - it is the Amazon of PNG ! Rising on the Victor Emanuelle Range in the Central Highlands near Telofomin, the Sepik (know as the Kaiserin Augusta River during German colonization), flows north west then swings east along the central depression, draining numerous tributaries from the Bewani and Toricelli mountains in the north and the central range in the south, before entering the Bismarck Sea. The course changes every wet season, creating huge oxbows that appear and disappear in the course of a single season. Villages that have, over time, been built on the more permanent of the ox bows build “barrets”, or cuttings from the new course taken by the river in order to maintain access. The Middle Sepik River is identified by the main language group of this area – Iatmul, which extends from Pagwi to Tambanum Village at the lower end of the River.

Canoes are carved from trees in traditional fashion, but have been adapted to take an outboard motor and seats have been added for comfort. Travelling upriver to Ambunti, passing other canoes and villages, brings the realisation that this River is a unique water highway for the people of the area. The Middle Sepik is often described as the cultural heart of PNG, with its unique carvings, spirit houses and traditional culture, where each village has developed it’s own artistic style.

Ambunti is a significant village for the local people, with an airstrip and administrative center. It is also the jumping off point for access to the Hunstein Ranges, a WWF declared wild life management area covering 540,000 acres and home to many species of birds, including Hornbills, Cassowaries and the legendary Birds of Paradise.

Meno and Tongwijamb villagers observe traditional activities and produce a range of artifacts available for purchase.

Yambon boasts one of the more significant “Haus Tambarans” or spirit houses associated with this area. Traditionally these houses were used for all activities involving men who were warriors and uninitiated boys. Women were forbidden to approach or enter Haus Tambaran, and death was the penalty for doing so. Things today however have changed and female visitors are now permitted entry. In the past, a freshly procured human head was buried under each post of the Haus Tambaran, a practice that has also been discontinued.

Master carvers populate both Yesan and Yambon Villages. Many art forms are rigid, but each carving has a specific use and embodies an individual spirit. Carvings tend to take the form of Ancestral Masks representing a specific ancestor, Mwai masks represent mythical siblings, Savi masks are protection against black magic, and Dance masks are used to evoke specific spirits related to war or hunting. Canoe Prow masks protect against supernatural powers or spears of an enemy. Ceremonial shields are for display in battle, Hooks are used for hanging food, Cult hooks contain the spirit between the two hooks, and are used in initiation ceremonies and Garamut drums are used for ceremonies. Both villages also have a significant Yam Culture.

Wagu Lakes are part of the Hunstein Wildlife management area and include the Bird of Paradise Sanctuary at Kanganamun. The birds are at their most active in the cool of the morning and their distinctive cries or shrieks are clearly audible throughout the forest.

Aibom Pottery Village on Chambri Lakes has the only clay suitable for making this type of pottery, and is collected from pits at the foot of the Aibom mountains. The pottery is essential for food preparation and it is unique to the area. One of the most important pieces produced is the Gugumbe or fireplace dish, a flattened or scooped out pot in which small fires can be built to enable cooking within village houses. Other pots are used for sago storage or cooking and traditional decoration is an important part of the pot construction. The pots are built using a pinch and coil technique, they are then set out in the sun to dry and fired, usually just prior to a market day. Firing usually occurs for 30 to 60 minutes and the pots are considered “done” when they turn orange. This is a very low level of firing and the pots can be fragile in the extreme.

Palimbe Village is renowned as home of the crocodile cult, with magnificent hand carved totems supporting the traditional Haus Tambaran.

Travel back down River is at a faster pace than on the way up, with the added push of the river to carry the canoe back to Pagwi. On return to Pagwi, meet up with our 4WD vehicle for road transfer back to Wewak via Maprik and an opportunity to explore the unique culture of these inland people, which is based on yam ceremonies and festivals. The Maprik area is also well known for its “sky scraper” Haus Tambaran, often compared to Parliament House.